In my younger days traveling and freedom seemed synonymous.  With fewer time restrictions carefree travel produced wonderful discoveries.  Now I know it’s a state of mind that instead of scheduling in great detail and predetermining where to stay, play and visit, I can recapture some of that peaceful, easy feeling and uncover new gems. 

Humpback Whale watching in Nova Scotia, Canada

On a trip recently to Nova Scotia, Canada I did just that.  Taking more time to explore, I gained a new view of the province, a place I had visited many times.  Choosing the path less taken brought fresh and unexpected results: out of the way places to sleep, some of the 24 courses in the province’s golf portfolio, traditional and nouvelle Nova Scotia cuisine, time to relax and enjoy, and a better understanding of the people and province.  Touching the heart of the culture revealed an independent and entrepreneurial spirit that is a healthy and integral part of Nova Scotia’s lifestyle. 

The “something’s happening here” meter was really ticking after locating Pictou Lodge, a classic neat, clean, and quiet resort at the water’s edge on the Northumberland Straits.

The traditional lakeside log Rotunda and log cabin sleeping units may not be classified five star, but the entire resort is meticulously manicured, maintained and tastefully done. The lakefront style lodge harkens back to simpler days and depicts timeless elegance.

The main lodge features a high gloss finish with old style white caulking and a 12-foot wide fieldstone fireplace in the dining room.  It was here from the glassed porch area of my table

The Keltic Lodge is a classic premier property of understated elegance on the Atlantic Ocean

during dinner that I watched great blue herons wading at the shore and a bald eagle diving for fish as sunset took hold. 

The meal, prepared by sous-chef Courtney McDonald, was exceptional.  It included a seafood chowder starter with mussels, lobster, haddock, scallops, creamed potato, onion, tarragon and thyme---semi-rich, creamy and not too thick.  Appetizer was catch of the day--succulent pan-fried Digby scallops.  A Caesar salad, Nova Scotia rib lamb chops and local wines rounded out a splendid dining experience.

Recently completed two-story cottages, available for rent, sit on a cove looking on golf holes where deer roamed at first light.  Add it up--setting, star-filled sky, solitude, food, ambiance, and service--Pictou Lodge was a great find. (www.pictoulodge.com)

Area Golf: 

Highland Links golf course

Pictou Harbor Golf Club, Ocean Links at Brule Point, Fox Harb’r Golf Resort, Northumberland Links, Truro Golf Club, Riverrun Golf Club

Advance reservations are suggested at the Fox Harb’r Golf Resort and Spa in Wallace.  The five star exclusive luxury golf resort combines fine dining, richly appointed and elegant lodging, private beach, airstrip, and marina with a Graham Cooke traditional Scottish links and parkland style golf design.  All this on 1,100 secluded acres of dramatic, rugged seacoast. (www.foxharbr.com)

Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail offers many artist galleries, the Celtic Music Centre and Glenora Distillery. In the Baddeck area is the Alexander Graham Bell Museum, Bras d'Or Lakes and golf at Bell Bay Golf Club (www.bellbay.ca). A stay at the Keltic Lodge Resort & Spa in Ingonish (www.Keltic-Lodge.com) with a round at the Stanley Thompson designed Highlands Links Golf Course, one of the perennial best courses in Canada, should not be missed. (www.highlandslinksgolf.com) A preview of the newest layout in the province, The Lakes Golf Club, in Ben Eoin, a Graham Cooke design planning to open for play in 2010 (www.thelakesgolfclub.ca), suggests it might be worth a stop. 

Area Golf:
Le Portage Golf Club, Dundee Resort/Golf Club, Osprey Shores Golf Resort.

Taking the hi-speed CAT ferry from Portland, Maine saved time, driving miles and personal energy

Taking the hi-speed CAT ferry from Portland, Maine saved time, driving miles and personal energy.  The four 9500 HP V20 engines propelled the CAT 189 nautical miles in 5.5 hours, impressive considering it’s moving a 320-foot long, 85-foot wide vessel with 775 passengers, 250 cars, or 14 motor homes when full.  (www.catferry.com)

The ship arrives at Yarmouth in time to tour the South Shore coast--Historic Lunenburg, home of the Bluenose and Lobster Boat Tours; the artisan town of Mahone Bay or colorful Peggy's Cove on St. Mary’s Bay. 

Area golf:
Chester Golf Club, White Point Golf Club, Blue Nose Golf Cub

An overnight at the accommodating, downtown Delta Hotel in Halifax (www.deltahotels.com) made a visit and meal with sommelier Avery Gavel at the Five Fisherman (www.fivefishermen.com) very convenient. The chef prepared a delicious dinner of halibut with fresh beets and goat cheese. A recipient of Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence 2005-2009, Five Fishermen cellars 250 varieties of red, white and rosé wines, a good selection of single malt scotch and a variety of micro brew choices.  All combined, it made for a tasty evening and a great night’s sleep. 

Halifax area golf includes:
Granite Springs Golf Club, River Oaks Golf Club, Lost Creek Golf Club, The Links at Penn Hills, Grandview Golf & Country Club

An old-fashioned Acadian kitchen party at Chez Christophe

Traveling through the Annapolis Valley to the ferry dock can take a few hours.  But with time out to visit a winery, cheese house, and take part in an old-fashioned Acadian kitchen party the journey took two days.

A stop at Fox Hill Cheese Farm was a taste treat and also uncovered a great story.  Richard Rand’s fifth generation dairy farm was in doubt in 2002.  His son wanted to continue in the business but mounting debt necessitated a need to diversify, or shut down. 

“Not sure if a knock on the door one day by a cheese maker going out of business was fate or providence,” shared Jeanita Rand, Richard’s wife and partner at Fox Hill Farm.  “He asked, ‘Are you the people who want to make cheese?’  We hired him as a consultant, learned the ins and outs of milk production for cheese making, purchased equipment, got licenses and retooled the operation.”

Since 2005 the evolution has transformed the family farm.  Fox Hill Cheese now produces and markets nine gouda, four havarti, and three cheddar cheeses plus feta and parmesan along with fresh curds, quark, natural yogurt and gelato.  They will also be producing pasteurized, non-homogenized bottled milk in 2010.
 
“All cheeses are made from our own fresh, high quality milk which is drug and hormone free,” said Richard. The business is bustling with 70% of production sold at the farm retail store that was packed the day I visited.  The remaining goes to farmers markets and specialty shops in Nova Scotia. (www.foxhillcheesehouse.com)

“Domaine De Grand Pre’ focuses on developing their own varieties, styles and vineyard practices that will thrive in the local soil and oceanic climate

Nova Scotia's 12 vineyards are found in the valley.  The soil and microclimates in the region produce delicious and unique varietals made from locally grown grapes and fruit.

“Domaine De Grand Pre’ is a boutique winery.  We have focused on developing our own varieties, styles and vineyard practices that will thrive in the local soil and oceanic climate.  To achieve this, the winery has partnered with Agriculture Canada to develop hardy Nova Scotian grape varieties,” said president Hanspeter Stutz. 

Grand Pre currently produces 21 varieties of red, white, rosé and sparkling wines, as well as natural Stutz hard apple cider.  My only regret was not staying longer to dine at its Restaurant Le Caveau and savor more of the fine elixir.  (www.grandprewines.com)
 
Restaurant Chez Christophe is known for its Acadian Kitchen Parties, an authentically unique cultural and culinary experience. The bottle of white, a gift from Grand Pre for Chef Paul Comeau, was fortuitous.  Chez Christophe’s, on the Acadian French shore of St. Mary’s Bay in Grosses Coques, is a bring-your-own beer and wine eatery.

The chef-owned restaurant occupies a house originally built by Comeau’s great, great grandfather in 1837.  Traditionally, Acadian people gather to party in the home’s kitchen to share food, drink and music.  My table was next to the cook stove in the old family home’s kitchen.  In front of the stove were musicians playing guitar, base, violin/fiddle and a Cajun box. Throughout the evening they hammered out tune after tune, telling ardent stories in song.

Applause from elsewhere made me realize there were more than just the 15 of us in the kitchen.  Other rooms in the house also had diners listening to the music--a mix of Acadian and eclectic Celtic and Cajun folk and traditional tunes.  Songs reverberated throughout the house, which took on a life of its own, expanding and contracting with the beat.

Spontaneous song broke out, initiated by diners singing lyrics and followed by musicians’ accompaniment with patrons adding verse after verse. The Lovers’ Waltz was played for a newly married couple.  They got up to dance and were joined by diners.  During other tunes the staff and locals danced steps that resembled clogging. 

Digby Pines Resort is a classic full service hotel, spa, and golf course property

Chez Christophe has a Kitchen Party or two weekly and regularly offers traditional and contemporary Acadian home-cooked meals.  At some point in the merriment my meal was served--carrots, peas, mash potatoes with pork, lobster, shrimp and local large scallops with, of course, a spicy cream sauce—traditional fare, wholesome and delicious. 

This truly authentic cultural and dining experience tickled my fancy and nurtured my soul.  “Restaurant Chez Christophe is where the past and present meet, and locals blend with visitors to share a culture and celebrate food, music, song, dance and life,” said Chef Paul.  (www.chezchristophe.ca)

An old standby, Digby Pines Resort was as remembered--a classic full service hotel, spa, and golf course property.  I played in the morning before boarding the ferry in Yarmouth for passage home. (www.digbypines.ca) After a quick stop in town to pack the cooler with sweet tasting, world famous Digby scallops I bid farewell.

Annapolis Valley golf:
Avon Valley Golf & Country Club, Clare Golf & Country Club, Digby Pines Golf Resort, Ken-Wo

Digby Pines Resort golf course

Country Club.

I couldn’t have asked for more.  Rambling about the Nova Scotia countryside discovering the backbone of the province was as good as it gets.  Finding the real thing is sometimes not easy; at other times it’s difficult to know what’s authentic.  This time there was no mystery--it was a genuine experience. 

I’m sure Nova Scotia has many other unique and interesting treasures to discover, once off the highway and on a road less traveled,  I, for one, can’t wait to return for more.

Guidebooks: (Some available from tourism)
Golf Nova Scotia, Golf Travel Guide (www.golfnovascotia.com)
Taste of Nova Scotia, Culinary Adventure Guide (www.tasteofnovascotia.com)
Dining Out by the Restaurant Association of Nova Scotia- RANS
Passport To Nova Scotia Wine Country, Wines of Nova Scotia (www.winesns.ca) 

Bill Nestor writes about golf, travel and lifestyle from his ridge top home in Vermont.  nestor@sover.net